Behavior and Training | Concord-Merrimack County SPCA

There are two keys to effective animal training; one is compassion, the other is consistency. Compassion is important because other animals are different from us in their anatomy, their evolutionary history, and their mental capacities. How is a dog supposed to know that chewing up the coffee table and then lifting his leg on it are unacceptable? Animals have no way of understanding distinctions that are solely human. Nothing in nature would prepare a cat to know that he shouldn't eat the houseplants or scratch the furniture. Living in a house is a different world with different rules from those in nature. Rather than becoming impatient when your companion animal doesn't understand, have compassion for his plight and take the time to teach him what you want.

Here's where the consistency comes in. Develop a clear picture of how you want your animal to behave so that you can convey it to him clearly and confidently at all times. For example, if you let your dog jump up on you when you're wearing your Saturday grubby clothes, then he won't understand why he can't jump up on you when his paws are muddy and you're dressed for work. Dogs can't make that kind of subtle distinction. Make up your mind exactly what you want from him, and be forever consistent in training for it. Sometimes it takes awhile for them to catch on to things, so please be patient as you work with your buddy. He is not stupid or stubborn - he just needs time to figure things out.

Below are a few brief tips for solving common behavioral problems in dogs and cats. These suggestions are simplified versions of the kind of training that you might need to do. All of them work best if you are compassionate, consistent, and if you use lots of yummy treats, fun games and happy praise to reward good behavior. (Try using small bits of hot dogs or cheese to reward your dogs - most dogs love them.) An experienced trainer can evaluate your dog's behavior and come up with an individualized plan for him. Dog-training classes are a great way to spend one-on-one time with your dog and to troubleshoot problem behaviors. Besides, they're just plain fun! If you find that your animal is not responding to the dog training class or to the recommendations here, you may want to find a reputable behaviorist in your area. See http://www.canines.com/library/news/doineed.shtml for some tips on how to choose a dog trainer and information about the differences between a trainer and a behaviorist.

Top Ten Frequently Asked Questions about Dog Behavior

House Training
Separation Anxiety
Jumping on People
Chewing
Barking
Pulling on Leash
Mouthiness
Digging
Counter-Surfing
Aggression

House Training
We can greatly simplify house training by using the dog's natural instinct not to soil his own den. That's why crates are so wonderful. They give the dog a place of his own, where he can get away from household bustle, quietly chew on his toys, and snooze. While he's in there, he can't be soiling the carpet, chewing power cords, or otherwise getting into trouble. When he comes out, you can take him directly outside to "go potty," and then praise him and give him a treat when he does. After he has eliminated, he can come in and play for a while before needing to go back out again. Before you know it, you'll have a dog who knows that the only place to "potty" is outside. For more on house training, see http://www.perfectpaws.com/htra.html.
Separation Anxiety
Often what people call separation anxiety is merely boredom, loneliness, and excess energy. Most family companion animals do not get enough exercise. Dogs that were developed to work hard for their living - whether guarding a flock, retrieving birds, pulling a sled, or tracking game - will quickly become restless just sitting around the house. Perhaps you have a dog who needs a job. Take him to an obedience course, or try a fast-paced sport such as agility or flyball. Tracking is also a fascinating sport for both dog and human. It gives the dog confidence and, like the other sports, a closer relationship to his handler. Please don't leave your dog alone all the time with nothing to do. He'll find something to occupy himself that you may not like! You can leave him hollow toys stuffed with goodies, or hidden treats to search for, or yummy marrow bones to gnaw on. Give him his very own crate to sleep in, where he will feel safe and comfortable. If you still have a problem, get yourself and your dog to an experienced trainer or behaviorist for help. True separation anxiety will require more extensive behavior modification than we have room to discuss here. Call the Concord-Merrimack County SPCA if you need help finding someone. For more information, see http://www.doggiedoor.com/sepanx.shtml.
Jumping Up on People
This is instinctive greeting behavior for the dog, who wants to get close to your face to say hello and see what you've been up to, maybe find out what you had for lunch. Teach your dog to sit, and make that the default position whenever he greets anyone. Practice it over and over, giving the dog treats and praise every single time. Never reward him for jumping up - only give attention, pats, praise and treats when he has all four feet on the ground. If you like your dog to jump up sometimes, put a command with it, and only allow him to jump up when you have asked him to. Teach him to "jump up" only after he is rock solid on sitting to greet people. By the way, you can apply a similar principle to allowing or not allowing the dog on the furniture. More information is available at http://www.perfectpaws.com/jump.html.
Destructive Chewing
Chewing is a natural and beneficial behavior for dogs. In the wild, they need to keep their jaws strong and their teeth and gums in good condition in order to survive. You can provide your dog with lots of great chew toys at very little expense. Try marrow bones from the grocery store or hollow toys such as Kongs or Buster Cubes, which can be stuffed with kibble or biscuits. To make the puzzle a little more challenging, and therefore longer-lasting, use soft cheese, peanut butter, or yogurt to hold together the kibble inside. If you give them something fun to do, dogs will naturally gravitate toward their own toys and away from unacceptable household objects. Until you're sure that you're dog understands the rules, don't allow him in an area where he can run amok unless he is supervised. Try taking him with you everywhere you go for awhile. That way you can keep an eye on him, and you'll reap the extra benefit of the deep bond that will develop between you. Crates are a handy way to keep your dog out of trouble when you can't watch him, and they are portable, making it that much easier to take your dog with you. The dog will gain confidence from exposure to lots of different people and places. One caveat - the crate is a tool, not a substitute for training. Please don't leave your dog in a crate for long periods just to get him out of the way.
Barking
Dogs bark to greet, to alert, to express excitement, to warn, or for unfathomable reasons of their own. When dogs bark constantly, however, it is neither pleasant for us nor psychologically good for them. Try putting the barking on cue by telling the dog to speak when you know that he is going to bark. For example, say "speak, Rover" and have someone knock on the door. Then praise him for letting you know there is someone at the door. Now say "shh, quiet" and praise him and give him a treat when he quiets. This may take many repetitions, but your dog can catch on. Use your imagination to think up other things that will get him to bark when you want him to, so that you can praise him first for "speaking" and then for "quieting." If your dog barks incessantly out in the yard or in his kennel while you are gone, try giving him things to do. (See the sections on separation anxiety, chewing and digging.) Perhaps he feels safer indoors - why not let him stay inside while you're gone? Take a look at http://www.perfectpaws.com/bark.html.
Pulling on Leash
Dogs like leaning into pressure. Take sled dogs, for instance. The more weight they feel behind them, the harder they pull. That means that we need to use a soft touch to get them to walk without pulling and lunging on the leash. Though there are some good tools available to manage pulling, please don't use them as a substitute for training your dog. You may have heard of halters, such as the Gentle Leader or Halti, that work on a similar principle to a horse's halter: control the head and you control the animal. Other tools include prong collars and slip and semi-slip collars. Please consult a qualified trainer who can show you how to properly use the equipment without hurting your dog, or hurting your relationship with your dog. See http://www.flyingdogpress.com/equip.html for tips on choosing equipment. Whatever tools you choose, remember to use lots of praise and plenty of yummy treats to keep your dog happily focused on you as you walk. Let him take little forays to eliminate and sniff, then call him back to your side with a happy voice and a special treat. If you're always the one with the best treats and the best toys and the best love, why would he want to stray far from your side? See http://www.perfectpaws.com/leash.html.
Mouthiness
Chewing and mouthiness are related behaviors. In the wild, dogs use their mouths for everything, an unacceptable habit in human society. In a perfect world, your dog would have been taught how to control his mouthing behavior as a puppy. If he is already 75 pounds and still grabbing your arm when he is playing, you've got a problem. Consistency will pay off here. Simply stop everything when he gets mouthy. You can choose a word -- perhaps "settle" -- to let him know that the game is over. No attention, no play, no verbal interaction. If he persists, put him in a down stay. (He does know down, doesn't he?) Use his collar or leash to get control if you must, but do get control. Try not to get into an adversarial session of manhandling your dog, but simply use his obedience training and the lightest possible touch to get him to sit or lie down. When he has been relaxed for a few moments, resume play. Repeat the settle exercise every time you play until he understands his boundaries. This applies to pushy behavior such as mounting, jumping, or grabbing as well as mouthiness. Go to http://www.flyingdogpress.com/selfpg.html for more information on teaching your dog self-control.
Digging
Another normal behavior in wild dogs is digging. It's great exercise, useful for creating dens and finding moles, and good clean fun. While it has driven many people to distraction, it need not. Give your dog a digging spot of his very own, a sandbox in an out-of-the-way area, with plenty of toys and goodies tucked carefully under the sand. He'll like digging there better than anywhere else once he realizes how likely it is that he'll find some buried treasure. (You'll have to remember to restock it from time to time.) And remember, don't trust him in your rose garden if you aren't there to supervise.
Counter-Surfing
Snatching food, whether it's off the coffee table, dining room table, kitchen counter, breakfast tray, garbage cans, or even from your hands, all falls into this category. The least traumatic way to deal with this is simply to avoid the problem. If your dog is in the kitchen while you cook or in the dining area while you eat dinner, he can practice his down/stay. If you need to leave the room, either take him with you or put him in a crate or another room while you are gone. In other words, don't give him the opportunity to grab things off the counter or anywhere else. This is one case where the old adage about an ounce of prevention really applies. If your dog is already a hardened food snatcher, seek help from a trainer.
Aggression
I wish that I could give you some easy steps to curb aggression, but that's not possible. Aggression can have many causes, and you'll need someone experienced to help you figure out what's going on with your dog. Some types of aggression, such as predatory behavior, are perfectly normal, but they need to be curbed in order to protect your other animals or to live peacefully with neighbors who have small animals. Whether your dog is showing aggression toward other animals or toward people, please don't delay in calling a reputable behaviorist or trainer. Make sure that you are comfortable with the way that the person handles your dog and your concerns before you commit to any program of behavior modification. To help you understand aggression, try reading the articles on the subject at http://www.flyingdogpress.com/articles.html or call the Concord-Merrimack County SPCA for behavioral consultation and a list of trainers in your area.

Cat Behavioral Problems

Litter Box Mistakes
Scratching Furniture
Introducing Cats
Cat Fights
Biting/Scratching
Finicky Eaters
Eating Houseplants

Litter Box Mistakes
There are a variety of reasons for a cat to eliminate in places other than his litter box. Have you added a new cat or made some other big change recently? Your cat may need an extra litter box and some extra attention while she adjusts. Try changing the brand of litter that you're using; it may be irritating the cat's respiratory system or his paws. Cats are typically extraordinarily clean animals, and they may need you to clean the litter box more often. Perhaps there is something about the location of the box that is upsetting. Is it in a high traffic area? Too cold? Too hot? She may like another location better, particularly if she has found another spot that she uses regularly. If you see a droplet pattern on a vertical surface such as a wall or a piece of furniture, your cat is probably "spraying." Neutering sometimes helps the problem with intact males. Cats are prone to kidney problems and urinary tract infections, too, so you'll probably want to make a visit to your veterinarian for a urinalysis. For more ideas on litter box training see http://www.perfectpaws.com/litter.html
Scratching Furniture
Cats scratch for all kinds of good reasons, mostly having to do with catching prey and defending themselves. Keeping their toes and claws in good working order is normal and healthy behavior for them. Scratching something rough helps peel away old layers of dead nail. (The old myth that they are "sharpening" their claws is just that - a myth.) Cats are least likely to scratch inappropriate objects like furniture or drapes when they have several of their own places to scratch. Pet stores sell inexpensive cardboard scratching boxes that most cats love. You can also provide him with a small remnant of carpet tacked to the wall in an out of the way place (the best spot is one he has already shown a preference for). Attach it to the wall with the backing facing out and high enough that the cat will get a good stretch when he uses it. Try using fresh catnip on the scratching posts to encourage him to use them. We do not recommend surgically declawing your cat, however, keeping their nails clipped will prevent some of the damage. Ask your vet to show you how to trim nails properly.
Introducing Cats
If you like one cat, two will be better, right? Cats can live together compatibly, but don't expect them to love each other at first sight. The jury is still out on whether two boys, two girls, or one of each is better, but do try to be conscious of your cat's personality when you choose a new cat. Bring the new cat into a room in a crate and just let him rest there while your old cat wanders around and gets used to the idea that there is another cat in the house. Now confine your old cat to a different room and let the new cat wander around a bit, getting accustomed to your house and the smell of the other cat. Do this several times in different configurations of cat and room until you feel comfortable that the cats are relaxed in each other's company. Don't forget to have separate litter boxes for them. Once they seem relaxed with one another, you can leave all the doors open and just let the cats interact however they wish - don't force them to be close to one another if they aren't ready. They will make friends in their own time. Here are a couple of additional sources on cat relationships: http://www.perfectpaws.com/intro.html.
Cat Fights
If you do have a fight, don't panic and don't stick your hands into the middle of it! Squirt or pour water on the combatants to get them separated. Or try tossing a blanket or large towel over them to allow you to safely separate them. Give them plenty of time to calm down before you try to handle either of them, because they may still be over-excited and accidentally bite or scratch you. If you need to, go back to the procedure for introducing two new cats to one another until they can safely be loose together.
Biting/Scratching People
If the bites and scratches are "inhibited," that is, they aren't really painful and they don't leave marks, then most likely your cat is simply playing a little too rough. He has no intention of hurting you. In this case, simply stop the interaction. The instant the cat steps over the boundaries you have set for your play, say "ouch!" and stop stroking or playing with him. Decide ahead of time where to draw the line, and stick to it religiously. Eventually he will understand what you want. He may also be trying to let you know that he doesn't like whatever you may be doing. Perhaps he is tired of being handled or doesn't like having his fur ruffled in a particular way. Some cats even express affection through gentle bites that don't break the skin. If, on the other hand, the cat is drawing blood or sinking his teeth in, seek help. Cat bites and scratches are dangerous and prone to infection, and they jolly well hurt! Your cat may be in pain or have a neurological disorder. In any case, he will need veterinary attention and/or a behaviorist to help solve this problem. For additional advice, take a look at http://www.perfectpaws.com/handle.html.
Finicky Eaters
If your cat isn't eating, suspect a medical problem. Watch her carefully. Is she losing weight? Is she throwing up? Diarrhea? Make notes on her behavior and take them to your veterinarian. Perhaps she eats some foods that you give her, but not others. In that case, you may have created a monster. If you offer her too much variety and feel sorry for her when she doesn't eat, she may hold you hostage to her own taste whims of the moment. Find a high quality food and stick with it. Offer special treats often (but not so many that she develops an unhealthy weight problem!) to make her (and you) feel better.
Eating Houseplants
The easiest way to deal with this is to put your plants somewhere out of the cat's reach. Please double check to make sure that none of them are poisonous. Cats seem to need to chew on plants, though no one has satisfactorily explained why. You can buy kits for "cat grass" at your local pet store, or you can plant your own "kitty garden." Your cat will thank you and so will your houseplants. For more information, see http://www.perfectpaws.com/plant.html . By the way, you should keep the toll free number for the National Animal Poison Control Center by your phone. It's 1-888-4-ANI-HELP (that translates to 1-888-426-4435). There is a charge, but it's worth it in an emergency.

Links
Here are some links where you can learn more about animal behavior and training. Let us know what your favorite training and behavior links are!